Hello everybody,

Well I am now settled with my host family and met my host organization for the first time today. My host family is unexpectedly well off and owns a large house. My host father Bhagwati Lalji (to show respect in India everyone adds 'ji' to the end of the name) owns a marble business, real estate, and even a mine. The mother added the Kellogg's plate I brought as a gift to their China collection and was very appreciative. My host brothers are studying to be engineers like most upper class men/students. My host mother is quite inquisitive and wants to learn English as much as I want to learn Hindi. FYI the sons and father can speak English fairly well. The family belongs to the religion known as Jainism - a heterodox of Hinduism that is known for the concept ahimsa (principle of nonviolence that Gandhi is famous for utilizing). They do not eat meat or even eggs in the household or anywhere else for that matter.

But I've already had adventures with the family. The first evening I went to a wedding reception. FYI weddings are HUGE in India by any account. They normally last 3-4 days with receptions, "functions" (celebrations/singing), parades through streets with the groom on a horse and a blaring band and an entourage of people. At the reception I tasted a variety of foods - fruit juice, spicy dal, ladyfingers, vegies, chowpatties, sweets, and endless others -before my host brother said, "And now dinner." My stomach adjusted appropriately later in the evening.

Later that same night my host family took me to my host father's family's house which I'm told is 450 years old. Arriving through twisted, narrow alleys, my host brother said, "Now don't be scared." It sounded like some argument or act of violence was going on. Inside I stepped through a crowd of women into a room occupied by men and the smoke of incense. One woman was crying and then screaming as the others consoled. I had come along with the family to a seance. The picture of the dead grandfather was adorned with flowers and the focal point of the room. The woman was calling the spirit of the grandfather while the other women sang devotional songs. The woman then apparently spoke for the spirit as she moved into the room with the photograph and incense. At certain intense moments she was given milk or slapped people on the back as they knelt down to her feet to show resepct. She then handed out seeds or tiny mints to people. They immediately counted the number of seeds. An odd number means good luck is in the near future. My host family continually looked at me to see if I was doing all right.Later the younger son told me he doesn't believe in the calling of the spirits. The father basically told me if I do, then it is so. All this time these cute little kids were playing outside in jubilee.

The father took me to the chamber of commerce the next morning to hear a famous leader in Jainism. "Christians have the Pope....this guy is like the Pope for Jains," Bhagwati Lalji described for me. In Hindi, the leader spoke on "Ethics as Good Business."

Through the rest of my day's experience I concluded the following things are paramount to Indian culture: religion, family, weddings, food....not necessarily in any order. I returned to the extended family's home for a traditional Indian meal on the ground with a large plate and a variety of foods....I'll send a picture of that later...these cute kids, cousins, were running all around and found me to be quite intriguing. And yes, later that night I returned to wedding festivities...yes the same wedding...now attended by 2000 upper class Indians wearing $300 colorful saris complete the the standard over stimulation of Indian culture. Lights and music blared as caterers offered all sorts of "sweets" and snacks and dinner. I kept being told "You like...take more...if not leave it," my host brother kept saying.

I'll talk more of the dichotomy of rich/poor and all the other juxtaposiitons/contradictions that India evokes later some time. I intended to "help/assist/empower" those in need during my volunteering here so it's strange to live and be part of a family/culture that is privileged. My host family is part of the rising tide of Indian's economy. Much of India,. however is not benefiting though - especailly those in rural areas where most people live.

Like I mentioned I met my host organization and supervisors today...I'll give my first impressions later.

Keep in touch,

Will